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If you haven't been to Townsville for a few years, you won't recognise this jewel in the North Queensland crown.

It was over the complimentary Sherries at Six, that my host told me we were staying in the original homestead of the city's founders, John Melton Black and Robert Towns, for whom Townsville is named. From our comfy chairs on the wide front verandah we had the perfect vantage point, looking over a city which has undergone a stunning transformation.

I loved the contrast of checking out the new, while staying in one of the city's most historic homes, The Rocks Guesthouse. Built in 1886 as a bankers residence, the Rocks became a hospital in the early 1900s, and again during the Second World War when it was occupied by the Americans.

My bedroom was the old operating theatre, still with its high skylight so surgeons could operate by natural light during wartime black-outs. Next door is the old bomb shelter, now another bedroom and decorated with wartime memorabilia and photographs. I woke to the friendly scratchings of brown chooks free ranging in the guesthouse gardens.

The Rocks Guesthouse was lovingly restored in 1996. From its prime location at the peak of Melton Hill, its just a short stroll downhill to the city centre and The Strand, the waterfront area which is the centrepiece of Townsville's dramatic renaissance.

A multi-million-dollar redevelopment completed in late 1999 has created one of the best inner city beachfronts in the world. Stretching 2.2km, the Strand is custom-made for enjoyment, with beautiful parks, three swimming beaches, and trendy restaurants and bars sitting above the waves of the Coral Sea. There's even a thoughtfully-designed fitness circuit and kids will love the fantastic water-park playground.

Each night we ate out at South Townsville's eat street - Palmer Street, which offers cuisines from around the world, all using the freshest local seafood and produce. If you're in town on the weekend, North Queensland's largest arts and craft market, Cotters, is held in the Mall each Sunday morning from 8:30 am to 1pm. Panorama House, perched on the top of Castle Hill, is a great place for a leisurely breakfast.

The Museum of Tropical Queensland must be one of the most interactive museums in the country. The centrepiece is the built-to-scale replica of the Pandora ship, which gave chase to the Bounty mutineers and sank off the Great Barrier Reef in 1791.

The museum has devoted itself to telling this tale of human endurance and tragedy. Most fascinating are the artefacts recovered from the sunken ship, from the captain's china to a menacing canon.

Nearby is ReefHQ, which contains the largest self-perpetuating coral reef in the world. Here we watched as scuba divers float above the coral, feeding the fish while they speak to you via intercom. There's a touch tank, heaps of interactive activities for the kids and a sea turtle rehabilitation centre.

For a taste of the real thing, there are plenty of day trips available out to the Great Barrier Reef.

If you're into maritime history, don't miss a visit to the Maritime Museum of Townsville, which has been upgraded and re-opened. The museum has displays of the SS Yongala, the Australian Navy, sailing ships and a model ship building room, as well as a BBQ and picnic area outside.

Make sure you make time to visit beautiful Magnetic Island, just 20 minutes by fast-cat. The island has 23 coral-fringed beaches, and the best way to get around is hiring a mini moke. There's 25km of walking trails through the tropical bush, and we spotted koalas on the Forts walk in the late afternoon.

That night we stayed at the island's luxury beachfront apartments, Shaws on the Shore at Horseshoe Bay. The two-bedroom apartments are great value and sleep up to seven, with a queen size bed, twin room with extra trundle bed, sofa bed in the lounge room, an ensuite and second bathroom. Other accommodation includes backpacker hostels, comfortable self-contained apartments, holiday units and four-star hotels.

There is plenty to do: jet-skiing, golf, sailing, canoeing, windsurfing, exploring by moke, take a Harley Davidson tour or travel around the island in a custom-built Jeep Wrangler. We joined Blueys Bush & Beach Rides to explore Hoseshoe Bay by horseback, stopping to swim our horses after the ride.

Also popular were the Adrenalin Jet Ski Tours which offer a half day self drive jet ski tour circumnavigating the island.

There's all kinds of accommodation in Townsville, from backpacker hostels and holiday units to self-contained apartments and luxury hotels, including the Jupiters Townsville Hotel and Casino.

For more information:

Townsville Enterprise
Tel +61 7 4726 2728

Magnetic Island Information

The Rocks Guesthouse
Tel +61 7 4771 5700

Museum of Tropical Queensland
Tel +61 7 4726 0600

ReefHQ
Tel +61 7 4750 0800

Shaws on the Shore
Tel +61 7 4758 1900

Adrenalin Jet Ski Tours
Tel +61 7 4778 5533

Article courtesy of Tourism Queensland

 

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